Well, America was fun. Nobody was rude. Everyone was very pleasant, even the Homeland Security crew. Even had I been pulled out for fingerprinting, it would have been okay. My fingerprints have been recorded ever since I applied for a Japanese visa back in the mid 80s. The Japanese have always taken their homeland security VERY seriously. I remember watching as every single blooming suit case was opened. Efficient, poker-faced officers with white gloves inspected everything. They came along with sniffing dogs as we stood in this line or that line.
I’m getting way off track here, but want to hear my Tokyo airport story? Through a chain of bizarre twists of fate, I ended up stranded on the outskirts of Tokyo with no money whatsoever. It’s a long story. It’s not that I was broke; I’d saved $100 for this particular leg of my journey back to the states. But I’d accidentally gone off and left said hundred dollar bill in the sutra booklet drawer of my butsudan (cabinet that holds your object of worship).
I had some Yen in my pockets and was able to pay for 2 nights at a traditional inn out in the countryside near the airport. But I had no money for food and not enough for a third night in the inn. The family who ran the inn figured out that I was out of cash. They figured this out because I didn’t come down for meals, would not accept even a bowl of soup or rice or even a cracker. I knew I couldn’t pay for it, so I just went hungry.
I had planned the 3 days in Tokyo because I’d promised my close friend Shailesh that I would try to find an old friend of his. Shailesh said the monestery where he’d been a monk would take me in. It’s one of their purposes…to take in wandring strangers. Or so he believed. I guess a lot had changed in the 20 years since he’d lived there. I had managed to find the right zen monastery and had rung at the big iron gate. A monk came to the gate and I gave him the name of the man I was seeking. No, he’s not here, the very young, robed bald man told me. Not sure how long he’s been gone. Only out of sheer desperation had I hinted that I needed a place to sleep for 3 days until my flight to the states. I would spend those 3 days searching for Shailesh’s friend.
Well, this monk indicated that yes, TECHNICALLY they have to find a way to put me up if I absolutely have no place else to go, but it would be difficult. There were only men inside and I was female. He make the air sucking sound that Japanese use to mean “no way in hell.” But they are too polite to come out and say no. No is forbidden. So they suck air in between clenched teeth. I got the picture. I turned to go and he closed the gate.
And so I managed, with my pocket change, to lodge myself at an inn near the airport for 2 nights. The family offered to let me stay the third night for free. “The room is empty anyway,” they said. It was no skin off their nose. Gosh, I look back on the person I was then and almost don’t recognize her as having inhabited this same skin. I was so … timid, rigid, insistent on total self-sufficiency. I had such painful difficulty accepting favours. No, the weather was fine and I would just pack up my rucksack and move on… I’d be fine for 24 hours in the open. I did, however, finally accept one bowl of rice with the condition that they let me send them money when I got back to Arkansas. I was famished. My boyfriend Xavier’s well-meaning brother had sent me off with a backpack full of sandwiches. Unfortunately, he slathered them all in mayonnaise, which caused them all to go bad in the heat of my backpack very quickly. Eight sandwiches became two rapidly consumed sandwiches and six baggies of garbage. Chunk. What a pity. If only he’d made them plain bread and hard cheese, they’d have lasted a week. Or just packed me apples. My convict husband number one had an favourite expression that still pops into my mind at times like those: “hindsight’s a motherfucker.”
Night number three I wandered the subway station, weary, wishing for a place to rest. I was so hungry I was searching the ditches and gutters for refundable pop bottles. I gazed through noodle shop windows at the wax mock-ups of menu items. I am a smart person, I thought to myself. Surely I can come up with a way to get a meal. Surely.
I came up with some very creative fantasies. I imagined getting a piece of cardboard and borrowing a black magic marker so I could make a sign that said, “English lessons XXX yen per half hour.” The Japanese are so hungry to practice their text book English. But the location? The setting? It was all just too awkward. Japanese would sense I’d lost face and it would repel them.
And so after night fell, I laid my rucksack down against the outside wall of the subway station and sat my butt down on the sidewalk. I laid my head down, closed my eyes and tried to get some rest. I was a walking zombie.
I hadn’t been on the ground five minutes, maybe ten, before a taxi driver asked me what was up. Foreigners with yellow hair didn’t just camp out on the ground at metro stations outside Tokyo. You MIGHT see one or two homeless Japanese during an entire year-long visit in Japan, but what I was doing couldn’t go unnoticed.
It was the end of my year in Japan and my language skills were damned good. I explained easily that I had a ticket to leave the country the next day, but no money left for a room tonight. The taxi driver said, “Why don’t you sleep inside the airport? It’s going to get colder as the night wears on.” His speaking to me so intimately was very out of the norm, but I supppose my unusual circumstance called for his unusual conduct. Also people farther down the social ladder are not as bound by the complex system of social rules. I suppose they have less to lose by being a bit sloppy.
I told the taxi driver that was a great idea, but I didn’t even have 200 yen for the subway trip to the airport. “If I had a few yen, I would have spent them on something to eat.”
“I will take you there,” he said.
“No,” I said, “I can’t let you do that. I can’t pay you.” Gosh, I used to be so stubborn, so glued to my principles.
“No charge,” he said. “I will take you there.”
I hesitated. A voice in my head said, KELLY, you big idiot, don’t be a hero. Accept the nice man’s offer and get in out of this godforsaken cold night air and off the nasty sidewalk.
It was, if I remember right, at least a 20-minute drive. When we got there, we found the airport complex surrounded by fences. A patrol of men in uniforms and white gloves, equipped with walkie talkies, guarded all the entrances and exits. The place was locked down for the night.
My driver rolled down his window and asked permission to pass. He was told no. While I sat silently in the dark back seat, my driver had a long chat with one of these guards. The guard got on his walkie talkie and spoke to someone else at length. Finally he walked over to my window. I rolled it down. Stone-faced, he shined his flashlight in my eyes and told me it was against policy for him to allow me on the grounds unless I had a ticket for a flight that same day.
“I have a ticket, but my departure is tomorrow,” I said, passing him the ticket through the window.
The in his white helmet and gloves took my ticket and walked back to confer with his fellow guards. He spoke again on his walkie talkie and to my driver in rapidfire male Japanese I didn’t understand. (All my friends had been female, so I never got very good at understanding male dialect).
Finally he handed me back my ticket and waved my driver through.
People. This was 1984. I’m sure it had been that way for many years before. What do you call that, proactive? I mean, Japan had never had a 9/11. This is just how they were.
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I want to tell you all about my day trip to America, but that will have to wait. Now it’s sleep time.